Cinque Terre Travel Guide: How to Hike, Dine, and Explore Smarter
Cinque Terre Travel Guide: How to Hike, Dine, and Explore Smarter
Cinque Terre – five impossibly picturesque villages clinging to Italy’s Ligurian coast – may look like a dream, but visiting takes a bit of planning. One of the most important? Ditch the car. These five fishing villages are best reached by train and explored on foot – or by boat, if you want a front-row seat to the stunning coastline.
Whether you’re visiting for the first time or returning with a keener eye, let this be your compass to doing the Cinque Terre differently — and memorably.
Getting There: No Car (or Flights) Required
Reaching the Cinque Terre is refreshingly simple. Trains run regularly from Florence, Pisa, Milan, and Genoa into La Spezia, the nearest city. From there, the Cinque Terre Express connects the five villages – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare – with trains every 15–30 minutes.
You don’t need a car, and frankly, you won’t want one. The villages are pretty much pedestrian-only, parking is limited and remote, and roads are narrow and winding. The train is the most efficient way to get around – though most of the ride is through tunnels, so views of the coast are brief and mostly between stations.
Important Tip: When buying a Cinque Terre Card, bring photo ID – it’s written on the ticket, and inspectors do check. No ID = no valid ticket, and the fines can be steep.
A Slower, Scenic Alternative: Take the Ferry
Want to soak in the Ligurian coastline properly? Hop on a ferry instead. From late March to early November, boats run between La Spezia, Portovenere, and four of the five Cinque Terre villages (Corniglia is too high up to access by sea).
This is how the Cinque Terre was meant to be seen – from the water, as fishermen and traders once did. It’s slower, scenic, and far less claustrophobic than the train, though be aware: it’s weather dependent, and boarding can involve stairs or uneven docks.
Walking the Cinque Terre: Trail-by-Trail Guide
Hiking between the villages is one of the most memorable ways to experience the region – but don’t be fooled by romantic Instagram reels. Some paths are steep, rocky, and not suitable for small children or those with limited mobility.
Important Tip: Closed shoes are required on the trails – hikers wearing sandals may be fined by park authorities.
To avoid the thickest crowds, take the higher trails or walk early in the morning. The more direct the trail, the more likely you’ll feel like you’re shuffling through a conga line of hikers. The Volastra trail (Manarola to Corniglia) is a wonderful offbeat alternative, with terraced vineyard views and far fewer people.
Below is a breakdown of the main walking routes between the villages, including difficulty, duration, and what to expect.
Expect Queues, Cash, and Crowds
There are restaurants, bars, and shops in every village, but the ones with the best views often come with a long queue – especially around lunchtime. If you’re visiting in July or August, expect to share the experience with hundreds of others.
Helpful tip: Many smaller places don’t accept cards for payments under €15, so carry small amounts of cash – especially for gelato, water, or renting a beach umbrella.
Best Time to Visit
If you can, avoid the peak summer months. May, early June, and September offer warm weather, lighter crowds, and just as much beauty – without the ants-on-a-hill feeling.
Where to Stay: Boutique Picks with Local Charm
While the accommodation in the region may not lean heavily into high-end luxury, there are several small-scale stays that offer unique character, warm hospitality, and beautiful settings.
These options combine style, comfort, and a strong sense of place:
• Hotel Porto Roca (Monterosso) – Cliffside charm with sweeping sea views and a scenic pool.
• La Torretta Lodge (Manarola) – A thoughtfully restored boutique stay with chic interiors and generous aperitivo.
• The First - Riomaggiore 5 Terre – A modern guesthouse with sea-facing suites and a contemporary design touch.
• Le Sirene di Vernazza – Cozy rooms and a terrace breakfast spot overlooking the rooftops of Vernazza.
• Grand Hotel Portovenere (Portovenere) – A grander option with historic flair and picturesque harbour views.
Restaurants Worth Booking Ahead
- Ristorante Miky (Monterosso) – Fine seafood and Ligurian classics, a top culinary experience.
- Nessun Dorma (Manarola) – Famous for bruschetta and sunset cocktails, get there early or book ahead.
- Belforte (Vernazza) – Built into the cliffs with unforgettable sea views; perfect for a romantic lunch.
- Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre (Vernazza) – Great for pastries, fresh pasta, and a warm welcome from the Sicilian brothers who run it.
Beyond the Cinque Terre: 7 Equally Beautiful Coastal Towns You Can Reach by Train
What if we told you that just beyond the crowds lie equally charming seaside gems where life moves slower, prices drop a little, and you’ll rarely see a tour group. Here are seven serene seaside towns on the Ligurian coast that are just as beautiful as the Cinque Terre — and every single one is easily accessible by train (or ferry).
1. Levanto – A Laid-Back Gateway to the Cinque Terre
Why Go:
Just one stop north of Monterosso, Levanto is the perfect slow-travel base: sandy beaches, excellent hiking, and local trattorias — all without the crowds.
Train Access:
- Direct trains from Milan, Genoa, Pisa, and La Spezia.
- On the same rail line as the Cinque Terre.
Highlights:
- Surfing and sandy beaches
- Hiking trails into the national park
- Easy access to the Cinque Terre by train or ferry
Ideal For:
Train travellers and families who want access without chaos.
2. Portovenere – The “Sixth” Cinque Terre
Why Go:
A UNESCO-listed town often called the “sixth village”, with colourful houses and an ancient castle. Portovenere is often overlooked simply because it’s not on the Cinque Terre train line. But with its dramatic cliffs, colourful harbour, medieval castle, and the striking Church of San Pietro perched over the sea, it’s every bit as stunning.
How to Get There:
- Take a train to La Spezia, then:
- Bus (30 mins) or
- Ferry (30–45 mins) directly to Portovenere
- Ferries also run from the Cinque Terre in high season.
Highlights:
- Church of San Pietro on the cliff edge
- Medieval castle and old town
- Dramatic sunsets and photo ops
Ideal For:
Day-trippers, slow travellers, off-the-beaten-path seekers.
3. Tellaro – Liguria’s Best-Kept Secret
Why Go:
A tiny cliffside village with romantic views, cobbled lanes, and a sleepy vibe — Tellaro is like Manarola before the Instagram boom. It’s a favourite among Italian poets and painters.
How to Get There:
- By Bus: From Lerici via local bus (Line 11 or L) — scenic but infrequent.
- Train? No station — this helps keep it quiet.
Ideal For:
Artists, couples, peaceful escapes.
4. Lerici – Byron’s Bay and La Dolce Vita Vibes
Why Go:
Once loved by the Romantic poets, Lerici today is a charming seaside resort with castle views, lively piazzas for evening strolls, and soft beaches.
Train Access:
Train to La Spezia, then:
- Bus (30 mins) to Lerici
- Summer ferry from Portovenere
Highlights:
- Sandy beaches (rare in Liguria!)
- Castle with sea views
- Excellent base for exploring Portovenere and Tellaro on foot or boat
Ideal For:
Families, literary buffs, beach lovers.
5. Bonassola – Wellness by the Waves
Why Go:
A small village with a gentle pace, Bonassola is tucked between pine-covered cliffs and the sea. It’s ideal for those who want to retreat — think yoga, beach walks, and aperitivo on the promenade.
Train Access:
- One stop from Levanto (2 mins), frequent regional trains.
- Connections via Genoa or La Spezia.
Highlights:
- Coastal walking and cycling paths
- Organic food scene and relaxed charm
- Stunning views with almost no crowds
Ideal For:
Hikers, couples, wellness travellers.
6. Sestri Levante – For the Chic and Beachy
Why Go:
Known for its two beautiful bays — the Bay of Silence and the Bay of Fables — Sestri Levante blends Ligurian charm with Riviera polish. Great food, sandy beaches, and stylish stays.
Train Access:
- On the main Genoa–La Spezia line; direct trains from Milan and Pisa.
- Fast trains stop here too.
Highlights:
- Beautiful beaches and chic promenade
- Artisanal shops and boutique hotels
- Romantic sunsets over the bay
Good For: Stylish travellers, longer holidays, beach lovers.
7. Camogli – The Prettiest Fishing Village You’ve Never Heard Of
Why Go:
With colourful harbour houses, local fish markets, and fewer crowds than Portofino (just around the headland), Camogli is a romantic, photogenic, and deeply local escape.
Train Access:
- On the Genoa–La Spezia line, just over an hour from La Spezia or Milan.
- Short walk from station to harbour.
Highlights:
- Authentic seafood trattorias
- Ferries to San Fruttuoso and Portofino
- Pebbled beaches and cliffside walking
Ideal For:
Romantics, photographers, seafood fans.
Final Word
The Cinque Terre is undeniably beautiful – but it’s also one of Italy’s most visited destinations. To enjoy it fully, plan ahead, travel light, walk the lesser-known paths, and aim for early mornings or shoulder seasons. The magic is still there — you just have to time it right and travel with intention.
